Day 37 Gwaii Haanas Sunday 24rd May 2015
Early up (we thought), we were actually last up – peeked out from our curtain to discover the rest of the ship was up – coffee on and brekky underway!!
Rosie and James whipped up an eggs, bacon, and fruit breakfast and we were off and motoring by 0815.
First to Windy Bay where Watchmen David and Duck each gave us a different and valuable perspective. Sending us away loaded with information and so many feelings. Hope, resilience, grief, loss, guilt, sadness.
David took us through the forest to the village pointing out the many Culturally Modified Trees (CMTs) as we went. These are tree that have been used by the Haida in the past for planks and building material. Chris and I had conversations about our discomfort about the label but the trees were amazing.
Rather than cut the whole tree down they had a system of removing only the plank/s needed. The tree then continued to grow and built up a bark layer alongside where the strip had been taken making the trees easily identifiable.
In the village Duck Soup, an older Haida woman led us to the longhouse and shared history of her ancestory.
Using her own story and that of first contact of Europeans with the Haida to illustrate the story of the Haida nation including small pox and removal of children to ‘residential schools’. Grief and resilience were strong through the telling.
So many emotions and thoughts each time you see and hear more about the Haida and other First nations’ history. So easy to question actions of the past in hindsight yet are actions a whole lot better today: alienation, lack of place, poor health, disenfranchised.
So many emotions and thoughts each time you see and hear more about the Haida and other First nations’ history. So easy to question actions of the past in hindsight yet are actions a whole lot better today: alienation, lack of place, poor health, disenfranchised.
Finally Duck took us out and explained the Legacy Pole:
The Eagle, 3 Watchmen with traditional Haida hats, Marten (Marmot like) Sea Wolf (Wasqua) Abalone, Sacred one standing and moving. Raven, 5 Protesters, Grizzly and Sculpin.
Back on board ‘Island Bay’ later that day, Chris discovered he had lost his beanie. A full search of Island Bay and skiff – nothing.
Some rough patches today as we passed through Juan Perez Sound. Attempting dishwashing was an adventure.
Approaching Burnaby Narrows Ryan suggested we kayak through and meet him through the Narrows. Bit of a head wind but we all made it comfortably.
Once back on board had superb white fleshy Ling Cod dinner as we motored along past Bolkus islands.
Set crab pots to return to tomorrow.
Moored for the evening in Rose Harbour previously a whaling station and then proposed cannery. For the last 30 years plus it has been home to three people, two of whom we would meet later in the week.
