Day 42 Gwaii Haanas Friday 29th May 2015
By Mel
Ryan recorded in his log “0730 an “early” morning paddle off the Bischoff islands.” I’m guessing while we thought it was early for us – not for Ryan! Who wakes early and patiently waits in his tent quarters, up on deck till those in the cabin fire up the coffee pot.
We had arranged today’s early morning paddle last night. Timing was slightly misunderstood so I had woken at 5.45am, waited, silence throughout. Heard Ryan up top so figured I would head out to the stern.
I had to go past sleeping couples. Chris horrified at my insensitivity. I insensitively pointed out it was our last morning, chances of seeing people again were slim so who gives a s!#t!! When Chris recounted this to the group at dinner later Rosie responded “That’s why I want to go to Australia” !!
Ryan of course was up so I was first in the water on a perfect morning. Beautiful paddle along the island coasts
Many purple, pink and orange fat-looking starfish.
Huge cedar tree trunk balanced on the rocks with large cuts out of it.
Back for breakfast of Ryan’s special baked oats brekky: Oats. Mixed nuts. Dried fruit. Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Allspice. Coconut milk. Couple of eggs. Baking powder. Mix together
– a forgiving recipe and bake in the oven.
As we motored into the bay Tanu Village is situated along, we found the outriggers met initially at Premier Lodge, paddling furiously towards another boat ‘Piraeus’.
As we passed the Piraeus a woman called out to Ryan that she had a “Toque” (toook) for us – Duck had found Chris’s ‘beanie’ and sent it on to the Watchmen at Tanu!
Raven our Watchmen was new to the program and still picking up knowledge.
Fascinated by two finds one a doorpost fairly well intact and the second had appeared when a tree fell revealing a front house post hole under the roots (see bottom left pic above).
Motored on to Cumshewa village, ancient village not currently in the Watchmen program because of funding issues. A fully furnished Watchmen’s house at the edge of the village.
Without Watchmen as guides Ryan had bought with him the book ‘Haida Monumental Art Book’ to supplement his own extensive knowledge. Being able to read and compare photos with what was in front of us was invaluable.
Eric discovered a burial pole beside where we were sitting on the edge of the beach, found description of it in the book.
In the small beach harbour it had recently been discovered that rocks thought to be naturally occurring had been positioned as a strategy for catching seafood in the lagoon. In the centre was a small island that had belonged to the Shaman. Entry was discouraged as it was sacred and there were burial sites.
Dinner we had the choice of halibut or prawns both landed on the boat during the week. Halibut it was another perfect meal on the upper deck – wine, fresh fish, sunset, beautiful harbour.
Anchored at Cumshewa and agreed to get up and organised early rather than leave here and anchor at Moresby landing. An idyllic spot to have our last meal and sleep.
