Day 44 – 45 Haida Gwaii Sunday 31st May – 1st June 2015
Our final 2 days in Haida Gwaii and still sad about leaving the ‘Island Bay’ and the tranquility and beauty of Gwaii Haanas.
We hired a rental car and spent remaining time between Queen Charlotte City and Massett –
Stopped at Balance rock
Further along we happened upon a cafe and stopped for coffee. It was so good we went back for lunch at Crows Nest at Tlell a community of artists, hippies, hipsters and farmers. Oh and soccer moms. Organic kind of grocery and café with simple food prepared with care.
Found the small Farmers Market at Tlell where we met 2 young women rock climbers who had visited Australia and climbed around Arapiles. Also met an indigenous carver whose daughter and her husband who was Maori were living here. We had quite a discussion on where the peoples of the world originally floated to and from, and the carver had noted the similarity between aspects of Haida and Maori culture, and carving.
Walked the Golden Spruce trail. The upside was knowing the story of the tree – both some of the Haida story and the tree’s recent demise. Downside was seeing just the wraggled end of a once beautiful tree lying on the ground.
At the edge of the trail was a large Culturally Modified Tree.
Went on to the Shipwreck Pesuta walk. It seemed a long hike. One of those with the wreck in sight but never coming closer. The 10km was varied and beautiful: through forest, mosses and ferns, river side and beach.
Drove to Massett and Old Massett – felt uncomfortable about going into homes to see carvers so it was a quick visit.
While in Old Massett we visited the Council of Haida Nation (CHN) in Old Massett to find out about making a donation in recognition of the fantastic Haida Watchmen we had met. We decided on a donation to the Rediscovery a program for youth. In return the wonderful women at CHN gave us a small Haida flag.
In Skidegate we finally found the Spirit Lake Trail .
Found by accident as we had been told about it and had been keeping a look out to no avail. Suddenly the trailhead showed itself, right on the side of the road near Skidegate township.
While we got confused by the markers and were unsure of where we finally walked. It was a beautiful walk beginning with forest and ending with large numbers of Eagles at close quarters – a birdwatching, and photographers delight.
