Köln / Cologne. Germany. Days 92 – 93 July 30 and 31st 2019
We had our reasons for choosing the stopovers on our train journey from Istanbul to Bruges. Bucharest and Budapest were because we had not been to either before. Nuremberg was to visit the Dokumnentationszetrum Reichparteitagsgelande. We chose Köln / Cologne to meet up with Marcel and Jil, whom I had spent a wonderful evening last year after we had first met briefly in South Africa.
This visit was every bit as wonderful (and more) as my visit last year. Both of us continue to be amazed at how fortunate we are to meet the loveliest people along our travelling way.
In the organisation of our cross Europe adventure, I had booked the trains and accommodation to fit together. Taking into account it is peak tourist season and summer temperatures are unseasonably high.
For our short stays, the Ibis hotels have been simple, comfortable, all we need (well having a kettle in the room would be more perfect!). For a short stay, we have found the hotels nearest the station are perfect – no need for long treks with luggage. I thought I had the perfect spot in Köln with the bonus it would be next to the Köln Cathedral. Our sight to see for this stopover.
A couple of days before arriving I discovered I had booked the wrong Ibis! It seemed we were out of the city a little. Looking online it also seemed we would be in a night club – party zone. No cancellation possible – we reconfigured transport between rail stations and prepared for the worst.
Transport is so efficient everywhere we have been in Germany and Köln was no exception. Once we got our tickets at the station and got our tram direction right, we were on our way. Easy. The Köln Ibis Centrum Hotel was pleasant and the area around us filled with restaurants and a tram hub.
With no lunch, or snacks on the train. We researched near us and chose dinner at Leuchtturm. It was a great bar, with boat and lighthouse memorabilia filling the walls. Two wooden barrels on the counter served Kölsch – in the typical small glasses. No food but too inviting to leave without a beer.
Chris and the bar-tender had a funny misunderstanding when Chris asked for “a half”- the barmen lifted the tiny glass saying “We can’t do a half”. To add to the atmosphere a group were practising sea shanties in the back room.
Close by was a busy Vietnamese Restaurant “1980” – what a treat. A short simple menu, freshly prepared and wonderfully flavoured. We shared three dishes – Banh Mi with chicken, Traditional Pho, and Green Mango salad. Standout tastes – the sweet-sour of the Mango salad, the spiced and herbed stock of the Pho and the fresh crunchy baguette with the crisp salads and herbs.
Next morning – we lazed about until late (too late) morning and set off to visit the cathedral and meet our young friends. I have a new practice to get over my food fussiness – say Yes to the first place. This morning it was Vietnamese again. Bursting with people. and standing out along a street of fast food, bars and restaurants with its greenery and decoration it looked inviting – Viet Village.
The German menu was no deterrent to us – with our combined few words and Google translate we gave it a go. Both had made our choices when the waiter came and offered English menus. We accepted to check our translations and to make sure we had not missed something more delicious. A Duck Bao Burger for him, and Red Chicken Curry for me. The curry was perfectly spiced with fresh vegetables complimenting slices of chicken breast in the spicy sauce. Chris declared the duck superb – crusty roasted outside tender inside. We were both filled, happy and ready for Köln Cathedral.
A short tram ride to the UNESCO listed Köln Cathedral. Despite seeing it only a year ago, and 40 years before that – it remains an imposing sight – tall blackened spires rising above the surrounding buildings. Intricate designs on the spires whichever angle you view from.
All the more incredible when we learned it took at least 600 years to build. Each new building team used the original master plan to ensure the integrity of the building design and build.
As we exit the Hauptbanhoff Chris says – “So where is the Cathedral?” “Links,” I say. It is unmissable as you exit the station and that first view silences even the chattiest!
Entering the building is again breathtaking – whether you are a fan of cathedrals or not. The sheer size and dominance of it. Chris has a love for vaulted ceilings, and this was a vaulted ceiling dream come true.
I love stained glass windows – the intricacy of them. The light coloured beauty. This was a stained glass dream come true – delicate and intricate stained glass windows on all sides.
The history of the windows reflected an era of history of the building – some windows had survived the bombing of WWII. Some had been taken out for safekeeping. Some were new – one new window had been handblown and contained 75 panels.
Chris broke out his camera so I sat for a while and drank it all in. Along with the magnificence of the interior is the knowledge that after the destruction of WWII bombing a significant part of the cathedral had to be reconstructed – stained glass windows, statues, paintings and the building itself. Fortunately, at the time many artefacts, even stained glass windows were removed and protected.
To imagine the building of a cathedral as intricate and extensive as this had begun in 1248. And then had been rebuilt following bombings intent on its destruction. That it stands today amidst the modern structures of Köln / Cologne. Amazing.
Add to stained glass windows a love of mosaics. It took me a while but I found it – the mosaic floors. 19th Century mosaic artwork looking as fresh as ever. One area a piece with the Archbishop holding a model of the Cathedral had the usual square pieces of tile/stone creating most of the pattern. The cathedral was patterned with long thin earthen coloured pieces, spearing up to the spires of the cathedral. The floor was created and completed by Villeroy and Boch.
A golden glimmering shrine attracted endless photographers – were any of us conscious of the long history, created in the late 12th early 13th century to house relics. It is made of wood though it looks a solid gold and silver shrine.
Time to meet Marcel and Jil – so exciting to see them again and the afternoon and evening was a complete delight. A balance of drinking Kölsch and talking, touring and talking, eating and talking. Ending with a reluctant parting and a promise to return.
Along the way:
Kölsch is the beer belonging to Köln. The challenge was what was the Number 1 Kölsch in Köln – Pfaffern from the old town square and brewed in a nearby brewery or maybe Hausbrauerei Päffgen made and sold on the premises. And yes the names are similar because of the age-old story of a family feud.
The weather had been an unheard-of 40c the previous week – fortunately, it was cooler today – still children were leaping about in fountains, ponds and water features.
A boat cruise on the Rhine River talking all the while – contemplating the pros and cons of a river cruise, talking and seeing the sights of Köln from the river. Coming alongside the colourful older buildings of Köln.
At Hausbrauerei Päffgen the brewery is visible in its shiny copper brilliance. Beer is served from a tray piled high with brimming glasses of Kölsch swinging from the servers hand as he travels from table to table.
A fine time for chatting as we watched the never-ending circulation of food and trays of Kölsch. We did miss a statue of Gambrinus the patron saint of beer brewers, only to discover later that maybe both “patron” and “saint” may be overstating! Should he be a Saint, I know a few people at home who would follow this Saint.
All too soon it was time to say ‘Goodbye’ to Marcel and Jil sad but somehow we will see them again. The next morning it was again time to move on. A short tram ride and we were at the station with our farewell view the 4711 Neon sign in the terminal. Another product to come from Koln which I had never linked despite its fame during the 60s and 70s. I did not realise it still existed.
