Day 5: Fortress Louisbourg Canada Day 85 – Sunday, July 12
The Louisbourg National Historic Site, approached through a heavy mist preventing even a glimpse till we were at the Fortress. It felt like an authentic way to start the visit.
Our site guide Louise added to this with a passionate, enlivened history of Louisbourg and early times. Much of which involved battles between the French and the English for control of North America.
In brief Louisburg was founded by the French in 1763 and abandoned by the British in 1768 with much activity inbetween. One fact that fascinated me was that “real men” posed with their calf well displayed as a well turned calf was the sign of a gentle-man.
The current site (another UNESCO site) is a reconstruction of some of the Louisburg fortress and building. This site had never been built on since the Fortress so it was (and is) an extensive archeological heaven.
Lunch 1744 style was at the Fort in a restaurant recreating eating houses for peasants in 1744! One metal spoon, one metal wine cup and heavy pottery mug, a lot of root vegetables and fish.
The afternoon was free time at the Fortress and the weather was clearing. Time to explore the many buildings
The Fortress is populated with people in costume and playing roles of the time. First stop was the Kings bakery where traditional bread was baked in large ovens. This had been the bakery for the military so large wood fired ovens. Now a group of young people in costume worked the bakery. I was entranced by the young man who told us the story of the ovens, and described the types of bread – all in a rapid, lengthy, monotone barely making eye contact.
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Lace making
In each building there were people recreating the era such as the lace-maker. No matter how long I watch – I cannot understand how it is done.
In the evening back in Baddeck a Ceilidh, or kitchen party of music this time not provided by ourselves! Two local musicians and what a treat Rachel Davis – an extraordinary fiddle player and Buddy McDonald a singer songwriter. Anne provided expert percussion on the spoons for a time until an unappreciative gentleman in the audience said it was distracting!
I loved Rachel playing the fiddle with her feet were going at a rapid pace on the floor.
One of Buddy’s songs repeated through my head many times over coming weeks. “Getting Dark Again” – a song about a very long wake for a friend.
and Rachel and Buddy together:
