Hammam Konjak, Bukhara. Uzbekistan Day 38. June 6th 2019
It was not all I did today, it was the thing that I remember An ancient evocative experience – all I missed were friends and fellow women around to chat to as I imagined in the past while visiting Hammam Konjak the ancient and traditional bathhouse in Bukhara.
Instructions given said it was very close to the Minaret Kalon – how could we miss this towering landmark. Google Maps took a roundabout route circumnavigating the main (direct) area, travelling through the winding streets of houses and Bukhara daily life. Arrival showed our destination was a vacant block surrounded by fencing.
In 39c heat and close to time for my appointment frustration built. Down the side of the fencing a path lead to the back and two young women were heading our way. One young woman stopped and when we established where I was going and that we both shared English she generously guided me to the door. We had to travel along the side of a demolished wall and down a small street as she explained the vacant block had been an ancient market that in the past you could pass through to the Hammam.
At the entrance I also noted another street lead directly from the door of the Hammam towards the square with the Kalon Mosque and Minaret.
“Many baths, were located at a crossroads of streets, closely adjoining other public buildings. Such baths existed in Bukhara and Samarkand and were called “Hammom Kundjak”, that is a “corner bath”. One of such baths still functions in Bukhara near Kalyan Minaret.” Baths were also commonly placed within the Bazaars – today” (Advantour)
In I went – the entrance through a small wooden door leading into a domed entranceway with bricks making a pattern up to the dome and onto the small circle for light at the top. Following a hall leading off to the right within a short time it opened into a large cavernous room with several women busy looking after bathhouse business.
Hallway entrance to Hamman Konjak by Meghyn
Given a cupboard to store my things I stood hesitatingly for a minute until an older woman recognised my unspoken question – “Everything off” – gesturing down her body and passing me a cotton towel / sarong.
My slight nervousness at the new experience shut down my ears and when asked a question I heard as “Are you Italian?” I answered “Owstrarlian” in my best Uzbek. She looked at me quizzically then leaning close to me said “Pee Pee”. Silly me!
Once naked I was greeted by the woman who was to care for me for the first part of the bathhouse experience. Leading me further into the building and another circular domed chamber with a circular table of rock in the centre. Then taking me by the hand I was lead into another domed chamber – the steam room where I was rinsed and sat on the stone seats around the outside. The room was not as hot as a sauna room but steaming and hot enough to raise a sweat. A small bowl of tea was set beside me and I was left to peaceful contemplation.
After a time I was joined by the woman who then cleansed me – first washing my hair, scrubbing my skin with a rough glove, soaping my body liberally and rinsing at every step. Once completed I already felt amazing – something humbling about having another person wash you and care for you.
Once cleansed I was again left to sit quietly. The room was circular with a cupola leading to a circle of light coming in the top. The light shaft passed across the room, lighting the circular earthern bricks around the walls to the stone floor adding a feeling of being back in an ancient room where this practice has been continued for many, many, generations of women. It was not hard to sit and imagine many conversations of life and love happening within the Hammam walls.
As I sat in the stillness, the masseuse came and lead me by the hand to the circular table in the next room. the hand leading added to the feeling of simple care but was also to stop slipping on the wet stone floor.
The massage completed the relaxation of mind and body. A firm therapeutic massage, followed by a rinse down, and into the steam room again. It was momentarily strange to have the women caring for you working naked but this was quickly forgotten.
The final relaxation was to lie on the stone floor of the steam room with a bowl of tea to drink and a herbal treatment on back and legs. While it may sound odd to relax while lying on stone – it was warm, steamy and easy to drift.
After the final rinse off I was a floppy doll needing to be lead back out the way I had come – to the room with the red covered Topchan in the corner. Reluctantly time to leave. First to dress and pay for this delicious experience – 160,000som – about $25AUD. And I had heard people complain about the cost – no issue here.
I walked slowly out the entrance hallway feeling light, clean and cared for. All that was missing was the social connection and chats of a community of women.
Walking back into the old Bukhara it is not hard to imagine life long ago even with a body and brain as light as a feather.
