Train from Istanbul to Bucharest. Days 80 – 82 July 18 – 20 2019
Today begins our slow train adventure to Brugges. To begin – the overnight train from Istanbul to Bucharest.
Cabs booked via the local Taxi App kept disappearing off the screen so we move to reality and leap a passing taxi struggling through the selfie crowd at Galata. The grinding sound from the chasse is compensated by a charming driver with a deep, Ivan Rebroff kind of voice. The slightly-past-peak hour meant the trip to Halkali Train station on the outskirts of the city took a reasonably quick (for Istanbul) 40 minutes.
Our train leaves at 9.40pm for an overnight, and through the next day, ride to Bucharest. A dark night with a full red moon as we leave Istanbul.
Standing at the booking office we had contemplated paying for all 4 berths in the couchette so we could have a cabin to ourselves but decided we would share. As we sat in the little couchette with our fingers crossed we just might be alone – we are only momentarily disappointed as two young American men join us.
We quickly start chatting – they are on their way to Stara Zagora in Bulgaria. Impressed that we not only know of, but have been to their destination the Buzludzha monument. Disappointed to hear that while we could have – we did not scramble inside to see the art (it is no longer possible).
Train is our much-loved mode of transport – we have travelled in couchettes and various sleeping cars on all sorts of trains across many countries. Love it. The young men provide endless joy and laughter as they exalt over the “luxury” of this experience. Firstly the conductor brings us each the standard box juice and pack of biscuits – delighted they tuck in immediately. Next, they discover that there are actually beds that fold down – ecstatic whoops. The joy keeps on as the conductor comes back with pillows and sheets for each of us. “Sick luxury”. It was so much fun to experience their delight.
Finally, we all settle for a brief nap before the 1.30am knock on the door – Turkey border immigration requires everyone to leave the train. Once all passengers have been processed it is back on the train and on to Bulgarian immigration who board the train and process each passenger. About 3.30am we are on our way again.
With formal procedures over I bring out the sleeper-peepers and earplugs. Next thing I know it is daylight and I wake to an empty carriage – except for Chris in the top bunk.
We had read there was no catering on the train -true not a morsel. Breakfast prepared with our travelling kitchen – missing my cup of tea as there was no samovar on this train. At a couple of random points during the day, the conductor offered tea or coffee for a Euro which I speedily accepted.
After the young men left we had the day alone in our cabin crossing Bulgaria via the Shipka pass. Forested mountains, tiny towns, abandoned Soviet enterprises. Down onto the plains and finally across the Danube and on into Romania.
At around 11 am the train stopped at a station in Bulgaria and so it sat and we sat. Finally, the bleary-eyed conductor comes through “Stop two hours” he tells each cabin. With no cash and no ATM and not too much town to be found we decided we were happy enough to sit on the train.
Arriving in Bucharest our Airbnb was a short walk from the station. As we arrived the exterior of the building was a little tired but once inside our apartment we found a stylish little apartment with everything we could want for our stay.
Discovering Uber was in Bucharest – it seemed the easiest way to get around – overcoming language, payment and availability in one little app.
First into the Bucharest old town centre where we began our amble in the direction of old streetscapes finding a large ornate Baroque style building with a small craft and antique market tucked into the rooms and halls downstairs. The peeling paint and frescoed domes along with dim lighting gave an authentic feel.
Walking on we spotted coffee and stopped in at NarcoCoffee a discovery we made on our amble. Our coffee was great and the space was calm and appealing with older buildings surrounding it.
This was not a planned tour – more an amble of discovery and a little way on we came across a church trimmed with frescoes and surrounded by leafy trees – the Stavropoleos Monastery. Inside the little church, the peaceful space was filled with delicate frescoes. The monastery is now a monastery for Nuns with a collection of Byzantine books and music.
On Sunday a stroll through the Herăstrău Park and around the lake. Finishing with lunch on a shaded pontoon over the lake.
Each Uber driver we met told us of his prime recommendations for places to visit in Bucharest – more we want to see. Reconnaissance for next time.
Our kitchen was well equipped and so dinner at home. After a superb cook up of a prawn risotto in tomato with a bit of chilli and vegies Chris well-fed and happy confessed he had been dreading dinner – imagining overcooked vegies in rice! When have I cooked overcooked vegies in rice I wonder? It was a delicious dinner, accompanied by a lovely Romanian Rose with an equally lovely Romanian Pinot Noir to finish.
Bucharest to Budapest – the train leaving at 5.20am. Up at 4 am with a quick pack-up and clean-up. Thankful the station is a quick 400metre dash away. Along the street and in the station we discover surprisingly that even at this hour food shops are open. Our bags are filled with breakfast and picnic purchased last night as Chris looks longingly at the warm pastries we pass.
Once on the train, my visions of a comfortable day rambling through Romania and Hungary were immediately shattered. Our carriage is filled to the brim with oversized suitcases, back-packs, packs of McDonald’s and even a scooter. Every seat is filled. At each stop people left and immediately more joined. As we travelled closer to the Hungarian border the carriage thinned out and we could at least use the little table for a picnic lunch. Pleased at the tasty spread of heavy grain bread, salad, cheese, tomatoes and ham – sans wine, unfortunately.