Day 192 – 193 20th to 21st October 2018
The colours, the mountains, the winding roads, the huge cliffs, the deserted buildings. Where to start?
Wending our way along the Iskar river to Lakatnik village, -a favourite place for climbers and alpinists – neither of which we are, but it is fun pretending.
Chris spent his time planning what could be done with each of the deserted buildings we saw! Many, many buildings empty and some looking like a lot of love and effort would make for a wonderful place.
The morning walk was frighteningly visible as we parked. At the top a monument built to commemorate those who died during the September uprising in 1923 . That was our destination after “a little bit up”. The long walk up a steep incline was on our minds as we looked up – not the September 1923 Uprising, Yet it is part of the complex and confusing history of Bulgaria.
The walk itself was entirely manageable as we mentally cut it into chunks of ‘ups’. An enjoyable walk through a wonderful range of bush, limestone rocks, autumn trees, and cliff faces with views out along the river valley.
The views were stunning; limestone cliff-faces pocked with caves, the villages below and the river winding through steep autumn-clothed valleys.
As we walked we were convinced we could hear “doof doof” music in the air. As we neared the top, we discovered a DJ and a group of young people with their techno music piercing the beautiful quiet. Somehow under the huge communist monument, it all seemed entirely appropriate.
As we returned via another of the trails, we could see climbing routes and a tiny red-roofed shelter poking out near the top of a cliff face – a tiny tiny house for climbers to stay.
The trail down had huge rocks, tunnels and caves lining the route as we descended towards the Iskar River gorge.
Finally back at ground level our next stop – lunch – was an absolute treat. A short drive took us up a narrow winding road to a riverside trout farm and café. As we sat on the verandah of the simple restaurant built over the river we were served fresh trout cooked to moist, white perfection with a local salad and local beer. Simple, exquisite.
In the afternoon a walk to the Braji Duke Climbing Area along trails close to the climbing routes. Climbing is a big deal with great sites in Bulgaria. It is not so well known internationally as a rock climbing destination.
The trail was lined with huge limestone caves and curved limestone rock formations. Despite the threat of rain, a few climbers were out and up the cliff faces.
The forest below the cliffs was coloured with the deep oranges, yellows and browns of autumn. In the distance, the calls and occasional shots of pig hunters could be heard.
21.10.2018
Leaving the guest house after a traditional breakfast of Mekitsa a large fluffy, puffy doughnut-style treat. Served with Bulgarian Honey and home-made jams – served with a yoghurt drink which helped convince you this was somewhat healthy.
Today a visit to the Vratsa Mountain Range. Again stopping frequently to admire the vivid autumn colours. The typical potholed Bulgarian road wound tightly down the mountain. At one point I looked down at the GPS to see a screen filled with hair pin bends.
Finally levelling out as we travelled along the Iskar River Gorge, surrounded by towering cliffs and rock formations, with the river accompanying us along the road. We passed formations that reminded us of a dragon’s back, passed white limestone cliffs pocked with caves surrounded by forests filled with vibrant autumn colours.
And on to cliffs that lined the road on all sides, again with some popular climbing routes, including some inside the caves – handy when it threatened rain.
Our first visit of the day was to the Ledenika Cave. These limestone caves were surrounded by a children’s playground, a large amphitheatre and new entrance building. When we visited the caves were almost deserted. A host of small stalls selling tourist trinkets surrounded the car park. A popular item was flutes for children, the sounds of which could be heard echoing around the valley.
Once inside the caves the huge forms were lit (we thought unfortunately) by multi-coloured lights somewhat mitigated by the knowledge of our expert local guide.
Our hope had been coffee before the cave tour but finding nothing but a dispensing machine at the site, and not being THAT desperate we waited. It was a lunch worth waiting for. We stopped at Chaika Restaurant a large chalet style restaurant attached to the hotel. Surrounded by limestone cliffs and in the centre of cliffs popular with rock climbers.
Chris had “Rila meatballs” and talked of them for the rest of our trip. All meatballs benchmarked against these. I tried a Bulgarian Pumpkin desert, The first impression was a cold surprise, after expecting a warm dish. The sweetness of the wedge of pumpkin was enhanced by honey and sprinkled with nuts. Pleasant and not sure.
On to Vratsa. It was bitterly cold with a biting wind whipping through the town square. Towering over the square was a massive (communist era), chunky stone statue of Hristo Botev – one of the young men credited with liberating Bulgaria, despite his death at the hands of the Ottomans during the 1876 Uprising.
On another side of the square the Vratsa archaeological museum appeared closed. On our own we would likely have missed the opportunity. Undeterred Nadia entered and instantly lights were turned on and doors were opened. A wonderful small museum, made more special with Nadia’s specialist knowledge and excitement at the exhibits. Among these were the Gradeshrivsta clay tablets – pictographs from possibly 5000 years BC, the oldest in Bulgaria.
As we came to the end of the regular exhibits we were lead to a room with special locks and guards. As the lights were turned on the gleaming silver and gold was breath-taking. The Rogozen Treasure. This was one of those fairytale stories we all love. An older man was digging a trench in his garden when he found a huge collection including 65 pieces of silver objects. Eventually another 100 vessels were excavated, the largest collection of silver objects from the Thracian era was unearthed.
One of my top accommodation favourites – a three night stay in – Guest house Madona in Falkovets village. A simple guest house filled with Bulgarian history and memorabilia.
