Day 194 22 October 2018
To start our day – an unusual sight for us from our continent surrounded by sea. Not a rock formation, lake or mountian but Immigration police checking ID. Chris had left his passport at the hotel which momentarily concerned us fortunately a Drivers licence sufficed.
More unusual – this time unusually stunning to follow. It had been a while since reviewing the itinerary and I had completely forgotten what I had read of Belogradchik Rocks and Fortress. As we neared Belogradchik we were exclaiming the rocks towering up over the roadside scrub. Nadia amusedly instructed us stopping for photos was OK but unnecessary – much more was to come.
Belogradchik is a large region of large natural rock formations with a large fortress built into a semicircle of rock forms creating the famous Belogradchik Kaleto (Fortress). A fortress created over several eras with each era – Roman, Medieval and Ottoman visible through the remains of rock constructions.
A link to an audio was provided on site to add to visitor information about the Fortress – AUDIO LINK
The natural forms of the rocks merged with the built structures to form a protective fortress. After a stretch climb up a small rock face we sat soaking in the views on all sides as the sun warmed the rocks and burned off the mist.
The rocks appeared to change colour as the sun moved across from deep shadowed grey to orange. Tall misshapen structures, towers, groups that could be human sculptures. Some of whom legends had built up. Some such as Madonna and Child have been named and revered for their shape.
Each view as we circled the fortress had new and many formations. A view of the town was framed by rocks reaching out from the fortress.
The extra special bonus of having a guide is insider knowledge in any country. The icing on the cake in Bulgaria was Nadia is also an archeologist adding a dimesnin to insider knowledge and knowing where to venture off the beaten track. Excavations in caves as a starter!
Driving out to an excavation of a Roman roadside inn, a site just off a remote road with little fanfare. Here was a site mid-excavation but clearly visible. The stables, the guest rooms, the meeting space. A bat skeleton had been found on the site but its whereabouts remained unknown.
Our first cave of the day – the cave Nadia referred to as her office – Kozanik (Goat) cave – currently being excavated. It was fascinating to see up close the process of excavation – the layers of excavation throughout the cave. The markers set to record the different eras and findings evident in the layers. In this cave was found the oldest animal bone in Europe with markings made by humans.
Before leaving Belogradchik – a final treat as we took coffee up to a lookout point over the fortress, a short sharp climb and a perfect spot to enjoy a coffee or in the evening beers are recommended.
As we sipped coffee I decided I had had enough walking. Fortunately I kept that to myself – had a good talk to myself and said “finish the itinerary for the day” –excellent decision!
The final walk was to find a more elusive but very beautiful 2 storey cave – Lepeniesa Cave. Nadia had sought out instructions from a couple of sources but still not easy. Off the main road the dirt road was not marked yet it was found. The road continued inland for a time then deteriorated to a point we decided to park and walk.
The walk in through abandoned and overgrown houses with a background of huge rocks and on up through the rocks was pleasant on its own. Then a climb up through the multishaped rocks and after a couple of false starts we walked along a tree lined path until after a short climb the trees opened up onto a cliff face within which was a 2 storeyed cave.
Inside the cave you could walk up to the second storey past the curving rock forms and look out over the surrounding cliffs and bush. We sat soaking up the absolute quiet along with the stunning view until it was time to head home.
Back to Guesthouse Madona and home-made wine – the former a favourite the latter not so!
